Our trip

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Sheriff
Posts: 84
Joined: August 25th, 2014, 5:47 pm
Location: Alresford, Hampshire

Re: Our trip

Post: # 10283Post Sheriff
December 3rd, 2015, 11:18 am

Toshbins wrote: I'm also interested by what people use to tie the camper down with. Some say that ratchet straps are best, because they have some give, while others that the metal screw type are better, because ratchet straps can be over tightened too easily. I have seen in the states some springs that go on the mounting pots so as to avoid sudden stresses overloading the mountings. :?:
Are these the springs you are talking about, 'Torklift basic springload' kit? http://www.torklift.com/index.php/produ ... springload

I've pondered on this before and It looks like it may be possible to use the spring load 'canister' in a European-style turnbuckle setup, though there may not be enough space. I've not been able to find an economic way of getting hold of any though.
Guy
Karosser Camp 6L
Toyota Hilux 3ltr auto

Tony&Kika
Posts: 16
Joined: January 7th, 2015, 12:07 pm

Re: Our trip

Post: # 10284Post Tony&Kika
December 3rd, 2015, 11:54 am

Hi all, thanks for your replies. The red polarity light comes on only when the supply is wired wrongly, and yes it was only when connected for several days that the charge transformer failed. Can anyone suggest a supplier of a replacement charger rather than go to Niche marketing for a genuine USA model?
Interesting that I'm not the only one to have issues with the Northstar mounts.Yes 2x 10mm bolts in each corner through the ply don't seem very adequate for holding £12k worth of kit on the truck!
Thanks again. Tony &Kika

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Toshbins
Posts: 237
Joined: October 22nd, 2015, 12:12 pm
Location: Between Reading and Oxford

Re: Our trip

Post: # 10287Post Toshbins
December 3rd, 2015, 3:26 pm

Are these the springs you are talking about, 'Torklift basic springload' kit? http://www.torklift.com/index.php/produ ... springload

I've pondered on this before and It looks like it may be possible to use the spring load 'canister' in a European-style turnbuckle setup, though there may not be enough space. I've not been able to find an economic way of getting hold of any though.[/quote]

Yes those were the things. Given plenty of space the lever action ones look good, but the Americans favour tying down outside the pickup tub. That may be part of the issue with the Northstar. The one we looked at new at Niche had built-in mounts for the external style tie-downs. Perhaps the coach bolts are a retro-fit? Still not good enough to just bolt them through the wood with no reinforcement though.

Gary W
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Joined: March 19th, 2015, 8:01 pm
Location: Portland, Dorset. UK
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Re: Our trip

Post: # 10289Post Gary W
December 3rd, 2015, 6:12 pm

Toshbins wrote:Are these the springs you are talking about, 'Torklift basic springload' kit? http://www.torklift.com/index.php/produ ... springload

I've pondered on this before and It looks like it may be possible to use the spring load 'canister' in a European-style turnbuckle setup, though there may not be enough space. I've not been able to find an economic way of getting hold of any though.


Yes those were the things. Given plenty of space the lever action ones look good, but the Americans favour tying down outside the pickup tub. That may be part of the issue with the Northstar. The one we looked at new at Niche had built-in mounts for the external style tie-downs. Perhaps the coach bolts are a retro-fit? Still not good enough to just bolt them through the wood with no reinforcement though.[/quote]



These spring mounts are used primarily to take up the movement you get between chassis when clamping the body to those outriggers so common in the US. There is always some slight movement between the chassis and the tub and the outriggers magnify it significantly. Under those circumstances there is an argument for engineering some 'give' into the system.

However, with the smaller campers and trucks we have over here we almost always secure the body to or through the tub and there is very little movement to concern us. Absolutely the very last thing you want with this type of mounting is any kind of slop hammering away at the mountings. Inertia is the enemy, spring or not!

Best wishes

Gary

SBS Adventure Campers

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sabconsulting
Posts: 269
Joined: July 27th, 2015, 9:49 pm
Location: High Wycombe

Re: Our trip

Post: # 10291Post sabconsulting
December 3rd, 2015, 8:55 pm

Gary W wrote:
...However, with the smaller campers and trucks we have over here we almost always secure the body to or through the tub and there is very little movement to concern us. Absolutely the very last thing you want with this type of mounting is any kind of slop hammering away at the mountings. Inertia is the enemy, spring or not!

Best wishes

Gary
I'm 100% with Gary here. This is why I was moved away from ratchet straps. They had no stretch at the tensions I dared to use and I found that offroad the camper would move slightly causing one strap to become loose - i.e. causing the slop that Gary mentions. Once that slop was there any movement would result in the camper's inertia slamming it against the non-giving ratchet straps. I say non-giving, but there is a risk that the hammer blows do cause something to give, bend or tighten up further which just results in more slop and more inertia building up on the next cycle.

If you have some sort of sprung system you want that to be under tension so that it allows some movement but arrests it gently without the damaging hammer blows thus keeping the forces on the tie-downs more reasonable. I.e. without the damaging slop.

However, I will happily secure heavy things in the load bed using ratchet straps, because I will tighten them up until you can play a tune on them. But my camper is made of thin plywood and the mounting points are on the wings cantilevered out over the side - so all relatively week. If I tightened the ratchet straps to the amount I would want to hold nearly a ton of payload down enough to guarantee no movement, they would probably destroy my camper :(

Steve.
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Sheriff
Posts: 84
Joined: August 25th, 2014, 5:47 pm
Location: Alresford, Hampshire

Re: Our trip

Post: # 10294Post Sheriff
December 3rd, 2015, 10:02 pm

Gary W wrote:Absolutely the very last thing you want with this type of mounting is any kind of slop hammering away at the mountings. Inertia is the enemy, spring or not!
:o OK, I'll forget the springs then! Thanks for the advice Gary.
Guy
Karosser Camp 6L
Toyota Hilux 3ltr auto

RobSeeker
Posts: 2
Joined: January 8th, 2026, 6:31 pm

Re: Our trip

Post: # 40526Post RobSeeker
January 8th, 2026, 8:50 pm

Hello,

I am new to the group and I'm about to purchase a demountable for my Ford Ranger Supercab (1.5 cab not double cab). I was looking in the forum on how to attach it and this post came up from 2015 - so thought someone might be able to reply if I resurrected it!

Your comments about slop and inertia have been very useful and something I'll be looking out for and checking on regularly.

Now, the demountable I am buying has hatches inside that open up to reveal areas where it's own mounts are located and in this area will be some bolt-on mounts that are on the side of the flatbed - these are existing and part of the vehicle (factory fitted).

I was originally going to drill and bolt M10 eyelets into the flat bed base with 5mm steel plates below. Then attach the mounts on the demountable to the newly installed eyelets with ratchet straps. The existing owner has said he has used this set up and it has served him well for many years. He usually tightens the straps, goes for a drive around the block, then checks for tightness (or any slop).

However, since there are mounts already there on the sides of the flat bed (that weren't on the vehicle the original owner used for his set up), I thought it might be sensible and save time to use them.

Please see the photos attached. There are six of these bolt-on mounts. One on each side at the front, two on each side at the back. All of which I believe are accessible through the hatches. Four ratchet straps could go on with the back two going through two mounts each.

Behind the bolt-on mounts it looks like a nut has been welded on - so a fair amount of thread to tighten up to.

Does anyone have experience doing this?

Help or advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you, Robert
Attachments
Bolt-on mount
Bolt-on mount
Thread behind
Thread behind

RobSeeker
Posts: 2
Joined: January 8th, 2026, 6:31 pm

Re: Our trip

Post: # 40527Post RobSeeker
January 8th, 2026, 9:01 pm

Hi again,

Further to the above , I've just seen another post about anchor points.

It seems it can be a real issue so I shall go back to the original advice od the current owner - a good strong M10 eyebolt and a 150mm x 150mm plate below (5mm thick).

Sounds like from the other post that cornering can produce very strong pull on the sides. :shock:

Thank you, Robert

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zildjian
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Posts: 25726
Joined: September 8th, 2013, 3:30 pm

Re: Our trip

Post: # 40528Post zildjian
January 8th, 2026, 10:25 pm

Correct
Though that level of hard cornering is probably also likely to have the cutlery drawer and fridge empty all over the floor as well.

No, bolt 4x M10 eyebolts vertically up through floor and yes, with a spreader or BIG washer on underside.

Just be sure before drilling any holes that the camper floor section will pass between them.

I've for several years passed a ratchet strap down through slits in bed of truck, around chassis and back up to ratchets on camper corners, very accessible and never had an issue

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