Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Self builds and DIY projects

Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Postby tomc » 15 Dec 2016 20:43

I'm completely new to demountable campers and have given up hope trying to find a reasonably priced camper for sale for my Mk1 Caddy, because of this I have decided to build one in the new year and I would like to base it loosely on the Tischer, but I cannot find blueprints/dimensions for one anywhere, does anyone have any or know where they can be found? I also will be needing to keep it as light weight as possible so any weight saving ideas will be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Postby rubberrat » 15 Dec 2016 21:05

Keith's our self build guru. But what do you count as reasonably priced? I have a SunValley pop Top that I would sell for £4k
Take a look on the New Members thread..I put a pic up there on the 'Is a demountable the right choice for me?
Image


I think it would work on a mk1 Caddy. And I plan to test it on one when I get home as there's one for sale near me, but a sale of the camper would save me buying a truck just to sell as a package.

Image

I planned to pair it up with a classic yank for this summer and sell the pair at the end of the season but we are having a 'Life Sale' so shifting all of the collected detritus we have ammassed over the years.
Chevrolet 3.0 LUV Tischer Trail 200
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Re: Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Postby zildjian » 15 Dec 2016 21:44

Keith would have a manifest of materials used on his succession of builds
but plus time, space & patience to finish a build properly


if you could pick up a camper at right price that would be my choice certainly,
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Re: Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Postby keeflester » 16 Dec 2016 20:32

Lightest structure that's easy to build is a monocoque of 5mm marine ply bonded to softwood frames. I've done it twice now. For a small unit you can get good results with 25mm frames and use 25mm celotex or kingspan for insulation. Seitz windows fit nicely with this arrangement, and they're double glazed. This type of structure is good for sub-zero temperatures and is easy to repair if you damage it. There's quite a lot of info in my two self build threads. Main things to be aware of


Foaming polyurethane gorilla glue sticks stronger than the wood. Much stronger

Exterior joints are best sealed with CT1. Waterproof, flexible, and can be painted.

A recycled caravan door will save you horrendous amounts of work.

Keep your electrics simple and run the wires where you can get at them, because you will want to make changes as you learn what works.

Put a small curve in the roof. Flat roofs are very difficult to get to drain if it's left standing outside in all weathers.
2003 Ford Ranger 2.5 TD 109 Supercab, sold to Simon
Tandy Pony, sold
Northstar 750, sold
K33F-built Penthouse Pee Pod, sold to Simon with the Ranger
Built the lozenge for my wee sister, its now finished and in regular use
Now converting a blue Tranny.
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Re: Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Postby tomc » 17 Dec 2016 11:03

Thanks for the offer Rubberrat but now I've got it in my head that I'm attempting to build one I think I'll have a go at it in the new year, that being said I'd still be interested knowing how well it fits on a Caddy future reference.

Thanks for the advice keeflester I will read the other thread of yours later on for further help, As an idea do you have any experience with applying a small layer fibreglass over the finished camper as this should provide good protection an in theory be leak free?
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Re: Mk1 Caddy Camper Self Build Advice

Postby saDgit » 17 Dec 2016 13:51

tomc wrote:As an idea do you have any experience with applying a small layer fibreglass over the finished camper as this should provide good protection an in theory be leak free?


Hi Tom,
Fibreglass over ply is a good combination, very strong and, as you say, completely waterproof. Because of the additional strength of the fibreglass you can also use a thinner and therefore lighter and cheaper ply. The roof on my camper is made of 3mm ply onto which I have laid just one layer of 450gram chopped strand mat, then surface tissue, and finally top coat. I primed the ply with thinned out polyester resin first so that it didn't 'suck' the resin out the mat. Applying the resin to the surface tissue, and the top coat, with a foam roller gives a kind of 'orange peel' surface which I like. What you won't be able to get, without months of sanding and filling, is the high gloss, smooth finish that comes from fibreglass moulding techniques.

Image
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Previous demountables: Island Plastics 'Suntrekker' on P100, S.Karosser 'EC8L' on Ranger supercab
Current demountables: Rhino 'Safari' hardside and self-built pop-top on Ranger double cab
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